Search this site What is my machine worth? Well, in all honesty, not a lot. Unless it is very rare (unlikely), in extraordinarily good condition, and otherwise something out-of-the-ordinary, you will not be retiring on the proceeds. Millions were made and almost every household had one.
They don't compost well, so there are lots still kicking about. And no museum will take them. When I sell a machine I am largely selling the work I have done on servicing and restoration; there is no recognised market for 'antique' machines. Let's face it, most people don't want a house full of machines, and those who are peculiarly attracted to the idea soon find they cannot get into the lounge. I don't want to buy your machine, sorry. And I absolutely don't want to collect one from Wiltshire or wherever. BUT.they are still worthwhile to have, own, and use.
I work every day on my 1928 Singer treadle machine, and it is accurate, quiet, user-friendly, and works even when the power goes out. For the much less than the price of a 'modern' plastic cheapo machine, you can have a really good treadle or hand-crank that will long outlast the newer machine, and will be much less frustrating to use.
Round-bobbin Singers are always going to be possible to keep going - the needles and bobbins are still used on many machines and the rest of the parts either don't wear out or are still available. I keep lots of these in stock, see the links at the top of this page.
If it was your grandma's machine, you should keep it. They don't take up much room in ones, and your children may hate you if you throw it out. If it is in the way, try one of the charities that send machines abroad (round-bobbin machines only, please), I support - you can find a group that is local to you by Googling. Or is a great way to find a local user. Or put an ad in the newsagents. First you need to identify your machine's make and model. Most machines have a maker's name on somewhere.
This is a Clue. Singer machines always say Singer, by the way.On the other hand, only the later models of Singer will tell you a model number. The book it came with isn't always the right one.
The advice below concerns Singers, as that is probably what you have, we'll start there. The Singer company did not put model numbers on their black machines, so you need a few clues. (The number on the front of the bed is a serial number, and will tell you when it was made, but not what type it is).
First, look at the bobbin. Is it round, like this (it's a 66, 99, or 201 class machine. If the distance between the needle and the pillar is 6-1/2 inches (16 cm) you have a 99, if 8 inches (20 cm), it's a 66 or a 201) or this? (it's a 15 class machine) Does the bobbin go in a case like this (a 15 class machine) or drop in flat under the sliding plate?
(it's a 66, 99, or 201 machine, see above). Look at the spool pin (holds the thread) on top. Does it have an oval silver plate under it?
(it's a 201 - congratulations) Or does it have a shuttle with a long bobbin like this? (it's a 27/127 (full-size - 8 inches (20 cm) between the needle and the pillar) or 28/128 machine (3/4 size, 6-1/2 inches (16 cm)) There's much more to it than this, but this helps. If all else fails, ring me with the machine in sight and I'll talk you through all the above When you have identified the machine (the book in the drawer does not always belong to your machine, by the way), you need a manual.
I sell original Singer manuals and many reproductions - and The other make commonly found in the UK is the Jones, particularly the CS (Cylinder Shuttle) and Family CS models. Other makes are quite common - many small old machine were made in Germany, are pretty and nice to use but may be hard to find parts for. German machines are almost impossible to date, except you may be able to work out that they were made before 1914. Most of the manufacturing facilities were given over to munitions during the two World Wars, and most were comprehensively destroyed during and after the Second, with all their records. Any old machine labelled 'Made in Germany' (or 'Made in Berlin') is almost certainly pre-First World War. If you still don't know what your machine is you can me - preferably with an image.
RESTORATION If your machine is black and has had a motor added you MUST get it tested for safety by a competent tester - any electrical repair shop can do this. Don't risk using a machine with frayed or cracked wiring, or non-standard plugs.
I generally reconvert to people-power, as the motors can be very tired by now. We do rewiring now, by the way, and have motors and pedals.
It helps that my dear husband has electrical powers. Oil it everywhere, and turn the machine until it is free and sweet and does not squeak. Wipe the excess off and then do it again. (And after every 8 hours of use and/or every month, too) Do the underneath, too. Everywhere that moves. USE SEWING MACHINE OIL!
Not WD40 or 3-in-1 or cooking oil or car oil or butter or margarine PLEASE! If you can't get SM oil ask for gun oil or similar. (I sell SM oil, please ask.) Then try the stitch. See further down. Clean out all the grungy bits of fluff and dust, blunt pins, old razor blades and single suspender buttons from the drawers/box/underneath. If the machine is filthy (they tend to be), clean it with a little sewing machine oil on a clean cloth and rub gently. Don't use abrasive cleaners, wire wool on the painted bits, or car polishes, as they can take the patterns off.
Use a good quality solid wax polish on the wooden bits with a cloth or 000 steel wool if they are really dirty. Old cabinet sewing machines tend to have 'Plant Rash' - watermarks from plantpots - you can get proprietary refinishing liquids from your hardware store, but try on a corner before you go mad. Polish well, and leave it, then do it again later. Worth the effort, as a shiny machine sews much better. Sewing machines should live indoors, by the way, the garage is too damp and you don't sew there.
If the machine does not sew. Look in the manual. Thread the machine with 2 different colours of thread top and bottom, so you can see what is happening.
Change the needle. (Almost all Singers, and almost all modern domestic machines use a standard '705 class' or '15x1' needle. I now sell these ) Don't buy needles made in China, or without a manufacturers name on. I use Organ or Schmetz. Jones machines take a different needle, which I also Have you threaded it properly? Is the needle in the right way round? Is it in far enough up?
Is the bobbin in the right way and threaded up properly? Have you lowered the presser foot? Are you winding the machine the right way (crank handles turn away from you, but the wheel turns towards you)? Have you read the manual? It sews, but not well.
If the thread has loops on the TOP, then the BOBBIN is threaded up wrong, or may need its tension adjusting. If the thread loops on the BOTTOM, the problem is with the TOP threading or tension settings. Try rethreading first. Take the thread out completely and start again. Make sure the foot is up. Look to see if the thread is seated nicely between the tension discs and that it goes through all the relevant loops and the right way through the needle.
(Left to Right on most old machines, Front to Back on most later ones, but Right to Left on 201s and Featherweights, and very late 15s) If the work puckers, then the tension is wrong somewhere, loosen and tighten a little at a time to get the best results. You will need to adjust tensions every time you change the thread, usually only the top one, so play with this and get used to the idea. Many of you will have been told 'never adjust tensions' at school, but this is like driving everywhere in 2nd gear. The top tensions on old machines tend to arrive screwed down to complete standstill - I think this is probably a man thing.
Or reassembled in a random order. Bear in mind that sewing is a skill. If you can't do it, it's not the machine's fault, you just aren't good enough yet. I have tried to answer the commonest problems and questions I get, but if you need more information, please Now read on. My address is:- Helen Howes, 4, The Raveningham Centre, Beccles Road, Raveningham, Norfolk, NR14 6NU. United Kingdom 37 82 I'm open 11 till 5 every day except Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Serial Number Lookup Stolen
In collaboration with Last updated 2nd August 2018 The first sewing machines were made of bone or animal horn over 25,000 years ago, but the art of mechanical sewing as we know it today began in 1846 when Elias Howe was granted a US patent for his invention of the sewing machine. Not only is a sewing machine a very speedy way of making clothing and other material goods, they can also be very collectable objects. If you’ve inherited or stumbled upon an antique sewing machine, or perhaps if have one stored in the attic which you haven’t used in years, it could be worth some money. Find out how much here. Factors that determine a sewing machine’s worth The best way to be able to research a worth is to first be able to identify who manufactured it, then consider its age, condition and the machine type.
Singer One of the biggest and oldest names in sewing machine history is Singer. Around 1890, Singer dominated the sewing market, with about 80% of the world’s sewing machines being Singers.
And to this day, the name Singer is almost synonymous with sewing. Some popular collectable Singers include Featherweights, the Singer 301, the Singer 66, the Singer class 127 and Singer violin shaped machines.
There are of course numerous other brands of sewing machine as well. Japanese Singer Clones Following World War ll, many Japanese clone sewing machines appeared on the market. Funded by money from the United States, these Singer-clones were very often brightly coloured or ornately decorated. Note that although the style was almost a cookie-cutter copy of Singer machines, they were not counterfeit - they did attempt to copy the the name ‘Singer’. Many major retailers also purchased sewing machines and put their company name on them.
New Home At their peak in 1906 and 1907, the New Home factory was producing 150,000 sewing machines each year. They ceased production in 1955 but made a wide variety of types including hand cranked machines, the Parlor Cabinet Treadle and ‘Number Four’. Image Source: Collectors Weekly Wheeler & Wilson Wheeler & Wilson was most famous for the production of its hemmers.
The company won numerous awards during its period of operation including one for its buttonhole machines in the 1860s, which were capable of making 100 buttonholes in an hour. Willcox & Gibbs Willcox & Gibbs was founded in 1857 by James E. Gibbs and James Willcox.
The company made treadle and hand-crank models for domestic use, but it was also well-known for the industrial machines it made. This included one machine which was powerful enough to sew together straw for hats and other purposes. White In terms of quality, White were generally considered as number 2, just behind those manufactured by Singer. Today they are one of the most commonly found brands of sewing machine in the US. A particularly popular model to look out for is the White Family Rotary sewing machine, a piece of technology produced from the late 1890s through until the 1950s. Other brands to look out for include Bernina, Elna and Pfaff.
Domestic Sewing Machine Serial Numbers
Age To be considered antique, a should be from before 1900. Often, extremely old sewing machines have been lost in time or thrown away. This is why an antique sewing machine can be worth so much at auction - because if they’ve survived, then they might be rare, and therefore quite sought-after.
Note that Singers from 1960 onwards mostly have their model numbers clearly visible on them. Prior to this, Singers usually did not have the model number on them. Condition If your machine functions, and especially if it functions smoothly and efficiently, this is likely to have a very positive impact on a sewing machine’s worth.
A damaged or broken machine is likely to be worth less. Also consider that a machine will likely be more valuable if the original wooden case is present and in good condition and that the machine has its original key.
If it has all its original pieces, documents and instructions available, this is also likely to increase a machine’s value. Of course, if your machine no longer operates or has its original pieces, that doesn’t necessarily mean it can’t make some money. Sometimes collectors are interested in a machine because of its aesthetic value, and therefore are interested simply because of the way it looks. Industrial vs Domestic Models Your machine might either be a domestic machine, sold for home and personal use, or an ex-industrial machine, used in a factory to produce product on a mass scale.
An industrial machine will likely be larger and more heavy duty that a domestic model, and able to stitch thick materials such as leather. Although these factor machines are no longer useful for manufacturer’s purposes, they still make very interesting and decorative collector objects.
Valuable Sewing Machines at Catawiki It can be useful to understand what sells well at auction. Take a look at five of the most expensive sewing machines to have sold here at Catawiki. Singer Sewing Machine Model 222k - €405 The model 222K was made exclusively at the company‘s Kilbowie plant in Scotland. This machine is electric and the model was made from 1953 until 1961.
Jones Sewing Machine Serial Number 264533
In total, roughly 100,000 of this model were made. This one sold for €405. Antique Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine - €415 This American sewing machine was made around 1880 and is a great example of machines. Made from metal on a wooden base, it’s a simple and yet effective little machine. After 34 bids at auction, it was finally won for a respectful €415. Hand Sewing Machine - €523 In 1869, a man named William Jones opened a factory in Guide Bridge, near Manchester and called his company This type of hand machine was in production from 1879 to 1909 and was typically manufactured for export to tropical countries.
A nice example of Britain’s contribution to the sewing industry. Antique Sewing Machine - 19th Century - €555 Made in the 19th century, this unknown brand of sewing machine is a heavy piece of machinery, weighing in at 10.2 kilograms.
Its value lies in its functionality: it was sold in full working order despite its age. It’s a, one which not only operates but also looks magnificent. Modal jazz. And therein lies the €555 price tag. Original Express Sewing Machine - 1800 - €755 The top sewing machine on our list is this antique from 1800. It can be disassembled into 2 pieces, and was sold with original thread attached.
Not only is it the most expensive on our list, it is the oldest. For any collector interested in true vintage treasures, this object is a real treat. This is what makes it the most expensive sewing machine to have sold at auction. Do you have something you think could be even more valuable? Do you own a vintage sewing machine which you think could be worth a sum at auction? There’s only one way to find out! Why not offer it up for sale?
By registering for a free account. It’s free, it’s easy and it could be the first step you take to make some serious cash! Inspired by the variety of?
You can discover the machines we have for sale at our online auctions. Explore today! You might also like these articles:.
I have found a lovely Jones machine in a charity shop. There were 2 actually, one was the Jones machine and the other was a Singer.
As I already had an old Singer I thought I would have the Jones instead this time round. It is a lovely machine and is in full working condition though the shop owner could not be sure it was working and gave it to me for a £10. Could I say 'no'?
Had to have it though I knew I shouldn't have, really I have been looking for information about a Jones sewing machine but have not been able to find out anything. I have tried searching on the web but have not had any joy. I seem to remember a member on QB helping another person with the same query but cannot find the QB post now. Is there anyone out there who can help? Please excuse the photos; I was too excited to notice anything else other than the machine! Great laughter here- if you hadn't already told me where you live, the newspaper gives it away! I've been looking at Needlebar too.
I can't find any pictures of one like yours. Has this machine got a standard flat sided needle? I always steer clear of the earlier Jones machines because they take a round headed needle and aren't worth the bother if you want to use it. I am truly shocked that you thought they were made in Germany. In fact, I think I need to lie down. You might enjoy this site Hi Muv, Yes, the papers do give everything away! As mentioned, I am an absolute novice at old machines.
By the way, I meant 'America' and not 'Germany' in my previous post! Must have been rather distracted by the mention of 'Germany' in Charlee's message. Reason being, I only ever heard of the Jones machine here on quilting board and assumed (incorrectly) that it was an American brand. Well, now I know better. The machine came with a broken needle and when I removed it, it was flat on one side.
I have replaced the needle with another flat sided needle and tried to sew with it and it sews perfectly. In fact, the machine has been so well maintained. I think that it used to be a hand crank machine because there is a receipt - faded through the years - which detail a work order for the motor to be fitted that is dated 1984.
I am presuming that the machine is older the that possibly? I have tried to find a list of serial numbers (like on the Singer sites) but so far have drawn a blank. Well, I am hoping someone has an idea. I am very curious about this machine.Ummmmm Thank you for the link. Are looking to find out the age of your machine too?
It has been impossible for me to find any other information apart from the general history of the company. I am hoping someone on QB will shed some light. That's about all I could find out when I was trying to do some research on it. I wrote to the guy Muv gave a link to and never heard back from him.My son has told me I need to stop.
What a short addictive affair!just smile and pat him on the shoulder, and say. Yyyess, dear!
And repeat the next time. That's about all I could find out when I was trying to do some research on it. I wrote to the guy Muv gave a link to and never heard back from him.My son has told me I need to stop. What a short addictive affair!just smile and pat him on the shoulder, and say.
Yyyess, dear! And repeat the next time. Will let you know how I get on. On a more serious note, I'll keep trying to find out more about the machine if I can. If anything comes up, I'll let you know.
I was so happy when I found this. I purchased the same machine about 7 years ago, and at the time did a bit of research but came up with nothing. The machine I have is set into a table so was very easy to fold it away and use as a table.
Was having a clear out the other day and I came across the table and remembered the treasure hidden inside. So got it all out again and looked for hours on line for anything but all very vague so didn't really get far and then I came across a picture on a random Google search of your machine. Well after so much frustration and not one other photo of the exact machine I was over the moon. Very grateful for all the links shared as they helped but just so glad I've found at least one other machine like it. Nice machine.
I will be watching to see what someone comes up with. I have two Jones, one is a fiddlehead treadle with coffin top and the other is a hand machine (that's what is imprinted on the bed of the machine.
I saw a fiddle base treadle one on ebay uk, but because I live in america, I didn't get it because the shipping would have been 4 times what they wanted for the machine. I read that the fiddle base Jones is from the 1870's. I have looked all over online, ismacs, needlebar and many other sites to try to find out how old my Jones is. I got a hand crank recently and she's a beauty. I know that Queen Victoria died in 1901 and then her son Edward the 7th became king and his wife was Alexandria.
That's when they added her name to the decal as a marketing tool 'a machine fit for a queen'. Mine is a Family CS, but doesn't say Queen Alexandria on it, so I can only guess that it was made before 1901. I could be wrong for all I know. I'd been wanting a Jones ever since I first saw one back about 25 years ago. A very beat up one here in america will run you about $500. I got my Jones hand crank for only £59!!!! That's $73 here.
Dec 23, 2017 - Sep 15, 2010 - 4 min - Uploaded by MastaJProductionsHere Are Some ClockGen Download Links file.php?f=189. Pll Setup Clock Gen.
A friend picked it up for me over there and she mailed it to me. We found the cheapest shipping we could get and that was only $113. I can't believe it only took 2 days to get here from her house in England to my house on the west coast of the states. So, I got my pretty Jones for only $186. The decals are in mint condition, too!
The Singer 15K is always recognised by its tension unit being on the left face of the machine. Its bobbin had to be inserted into a bobbin case, then the case was inserted into the machine vertically to the left of the needle.
When threading the needle it had to be threaded from left to right. The machine in the image had a small type stitch length, later varieties had the stitch length lever protruding out from a large round numbered disc. The Singer 15K was manufactured over many years from 1910 - 1964, then reproduced again in 1982 called the Singer 15N.
The Singer 222K as shown has the sleeve arm or sometimes called tubular bed. The Singer 221K was the same machine without the tubular bed, it also had the lift up fabric table like the 222K Both the 222K and 221K were tiny machines known as the original Singer Featherweight machines. The light aluminium frame was only 9-3/4' wide, even with the fabric rest down it still was only 14-1/2'.! I'm sure its still the smallest adult sewing machine ever produced.
Its manufacturing year was 1955 to 1964. The Singer 28K had what was called a vibrating shuttle or boat shuttle or bullet shuttle. The long bobbin/shuttle was inserted into its case which looked like a bullet, then the case was located into the machine and lay in a frame that looked like a boat hull. When the machine was running it most likely was quite noisy because the shuttle moved forward and backwards at great speed, at times it made the machine vibrate. The Singer 28K was small at only 12-1/2' bed size and had its bobbin winder located high-up near the hand wheel. The Singer 201k was named the Rolls Royce of sewing machines because it was super smooth in operation thanks to the full rotary hook and precisely made carbon steel gears. It had smoothness that other sewing machine manufacturers could only dream about.
It also had a price tag to match.! The Singer 201K was cast iron in Black with a round neck body, also made with an Aluminium body which had a square neck. The Aluminium body machines were made in Black/Gold, Beige or Beige/Brown. First introduced in 1935 and continued in production up until 1962 Despite the differing body shapes and apart from it's smoothness, the 201K can be recognised by the large disc with the stitch length lever protruding from it.
The tension unit was directly in front on the needle which in turn threaded from right to left. The slide plate (to access the bobbin) had a small oblong hole which aided whilst sliding the slide plate to the left to view the bobbin.
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